Treading on ice

When I woke up from my short and fitful sleep it was still very early. The Sun had barely risen and it was still very chilly outside. I coaxed myself out of my warm and cosy sleeping bag and out into the open. It was a glorious morning.

I stretched my limbs and breathed in the cold, sharp morning air. I felt the chill spread into my chest and suddenly, I felt very awake.

After breakfast we started on our short trek to the last camp below the pass. It was called Kharo. It is the last campsite below the snow-line and the one from which we would start the next day to cross the pass and descend into Spiti valley.

As we started on our trek, our guide pointed out a distant meandering stream and casually said that we would have to cross it to get to the other side.

I was thinking, “Yeah, so what? We have crossed so many streams”. But, as we started walking towards it I realized that this was one stream that I wouldn’t be hopping and skipping over in a hurry. The waters were flowing rapidly and there seemed to be treacherous gaps and sharp rocks lurking under the rushing planes of water. We walked up and down the stream looking for a place to cross it.

Eventually, our dependable guide found us a stretch where the waters were relatively shallow and spread out. I took off my shoes and waded into the water after him.

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Well, the next couple of minutes were a truly illuminating period for me. The water was ice-melt from a glacier just above us and it was only a few degrees above freezing. As I stepped onto the sharp pebbles and rocks with the water gushing over my feet I suddenly felt a sharp jab of pain in my legs. I desperately rushed to cross the stream behind my guide who somehow seemed to be completely unaffected by the brutal chill of the water made worse by the unsteady rocks and gushing water.

159-IMG_8676 As I stepped out of the water and jumped about a bit to get some feeling in my legs I felt the heat of the Sun soothe my feet and that immediately calmed me down. I sat down to let my legs dry before putting on my shoes.

I waited for some time as one by one all the guys caught up. As I was waiting there at the bend that would take us away from the valley, I turned around and gazed one last time at the magnificent valley that had hosted us the previous day.
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It would be the last time during the trip that I would be able to look upon such verdant beauty made complete by the streams and glaciers with the towering snow-capped peaks watching over it all… it was indeed a magnificent sight.

I turned back and started walking towards the mountains. The grass started growing sparser. The Sun beat down harshly and patches of dirty white ice started appearing along the trail.

After a short trek we reached the campsite.

After putting up the tents I jumped in to escape from the harsh elements. This was the worst of all the places we camped at during the entire trip.

The air was thin, the Sun beat down mercilessly and the air made our noses bleed. Inside the tent it was alternately baking hot and freezing cold as the Sun played hide and seek behind the clouds. Some of the guys came down with pounding headaches. I spent most of that day reading inside the tent and venturing out only to eat and wash myself.

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The next day was the one I had been waiting for all along. For the first time in my life I would get to walk on solid ice and be surrounded by the stuff while trekking across a pass separating a lush green valley and a spectacular dessert.

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As I and KP loaded up, tightened our straps and filled our bottles with electrolyte we discussed what it would be like. We started soon and after a couple of hours of determined climbing we came onto the first big glacier. I looked ahead and saw the guide walk over it as if nothing had really changed.

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So, I too followed suit and stepped onto the ice and walked on confidently. But, immediately I realized that something was not right. My shoes started sliding and slipping as I pushed off with my toes.

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Very soon it had become impossible to walk normally and I was struggling. After a couple of falls the guide turned back and told me to wedge my toes into the ice with every step to prevent my feet from sliding about. I tried it and it worked!

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So, I was again walking smoothly and enjoying the view around me. But, then I came to some rocks and suddenly my leg plunged through some thin ice into a hollow. That shook me up pretty badly.

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Having your feet disappear under you when trekking on ice is not a pleasant experience. My one friend then explained to me that the rocks get heated by the sun and cause the ice surrounding them to become soft and unstable and advised me against walking too close to them.

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So, we went on like that. Through that unreal landscape… through blinding white ice, heading for the gap in the mountains,  breathing hard and taking controlled steps while keeping a wary eye out for rocks sticking out through the ice.

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It was with a sense of relief that I gingerly stepped onto the ice near the edge of a glacier and hopped onto steady land. Each time, hoping that I wouldn’t have to step onto another glacier again. Only to be faced with the next one within a few metres.

It looked like my reluctance to walk on flaky, soft and slippery ice was going to get beaten out of me that day. After a long time spent trudging through the ice the top was finally in sight. After another breathless lunge at the peak we were finally there… and it felt strange to be there.

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One one side was the green Kinnaur valley. Standing on the lip of pass turning to the other side one could see the vast, surreal and intimidating bareness of the Spiti valley. The claw marks that the glaciers had ripped into the mountains on their way down, the mineral patterns, the river flowing through a gorge in the valley, an endless desert speckled with green meadows here and there….

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It was shocking to see two such vastly different ecosystems at the same time. After spending some time at the top we started on our way down.

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Going down steep icy slopes can be either very dignified and difficult or easy and fun depending on the type of guy you are and the chill-resistance-rating of your butt.

Those black specks in the ice are guys sliding down

Those black specks in the ice are guys sliding down

After a long time spent jamming my leg into the ice and gingerly walking behind the guide, I finally gave up and just jumped onto the ice and slid down the rest of the way!

Well, there were few occasions in life that were more fun.

The rest  of the guys followed suit and we had a swell time.

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But, some of them didn’t have waterproof pants like me and their behinds paid the price for it.

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This is how people walk when their behinds are sore

The rest of the way was all big, big boulders and rocks and after that some more rocks interspersed with stretches of ice and ice-melt. The ice-melt was converging into a stream.

A crevasse formed by a fissure in the glacier

A crevasse formed by a fissure in the glacier

We had lunch at a spot somewhere along the way. Most of the other guys were having pounding head-aches. I was feeling nauseated from lack of water and food. I ate something and drank the ice-cold water from the stream with great difficulty and felt better soon.

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The long trek to our campsite

After several more kilometers of trekking we finally came to the campsite and settled in for the night!

What a day it had been! Every bit as exciting as I had hoped it would be. Next day’s adventures in another post!

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Bhabha Pass Trek – Day 1

Kafnu to Mulling

After spending one day lazing about in Shimla and getting a good night’s sleep at the Youth Hostel there, we set off for Kafnu the next day. This was supposed to be the starting point of the trek. The ride was thankfully a comfortable tempo and the roads were pretty well maintained. The ride through the scenic mountains with the occasional drizzle and the greenery was very relaxing. I had India: From Midnight to the Millennium and Beyond by Shashi Tharoor with me. In the breaks I took from enjoying the view I read the book.

We got to Kafnu by around 5 in the evening.

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There were no problems at all though there were a lot of warnings that there would be landslips all along the road. There was just one small slip 300 mtrs before Kafnu. We got down there and walked the rest of the way to our guest house.

That night we stayed there. I had a brilliant idea while we were there. To take a cold water bath! After a hectic and violent bath involving a lot of stricken jumping about and hyper ventilation I finally tucked myself into my sleeping bag for the night. The next day we would start on our much anticipated trek.

The first hike would be till Mulling. I and KP put up a scintillating performance during breakfast. After polishing-off about 10 eggs between us we were raring to go!

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The weather was beautiful in the morning. No rain. Just a pleasant cloud cover and the temperature was perfect for a vigorous trek.

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After walking for hardly half an hour, we found ourselves in the midst of scenery that was just mind-blowing. It was not my first time in the Himalayas. But, it was my first experience of Kinnaur which is completely different from the other side which lies in the rain-shadow region. There was so much greenery everywhere.

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Immense snow-capped mountains, gurgling streams, melting glaciers and alpine forests.

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Trekking in these mountains is a completely different experience from trekking in the Western Ghats.

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No leeches, no dense undergrowth or thorny trees and branches or snakes or slippery rocks or any of the other things which make hiking in the tropical forests such a different experience. It is just magnificent and overwhelming scenery all around, pleasant and easy to navigates copses, grippy rocks and endless grasslands.

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But, what made the trek so special is the backdrop. You look at something quite ordinary… against a background of immense mountains, clouds moving at a glacial pace among ice-capped peaks and rivers trickling down from massive blocks of ice, then… it suddenly no longer seems so ordinary.

You are witnessing one end of the cycle of energy and water that powers the biosphere. The snow falling and getting packed into blocks, then moving ponderously tearing up the rocks along the way to make soil, melting into thin streams which coalesce into rivulets and tributaries… eventually joining up to form the thundering and raging rivers that are the lifeblood of India.

104-IMG_8499The hike was a relatively short one and we reached the campsite at Mulling by around 1 in the afternoon. It was a sloping, grassy area surrounded by streams and mountains on all sides. It was such a pleasant place.

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It was the first time I was going to stay in a tent. I watched with interest and helped in whatever way I could as everyone put up the tents where we would be staying for the night.

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The cook’s tent was the first one to go up. As we were rushing to put up the rest of the tents in order to get shelter before the drizzle which had already started, intensified the cook started preparing hot soup and tea for us.

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We had packed some lunch from Kafnu which we had eaten on the way. So, we were not really hungry,

Once the tents were up, we jumped in and cozied up. I was only getting used to the cold. After a little time spent hugging myself I had the tea and soup. Then we went out and had a few walks around the place. After a little while some guys started a campfire.

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After nightfall, we had dinner and the others slept off early. I had my pocket torch with me and I read quite a bit in the tent that night. It is quite a nice feeling, reading while huddled up inside a tiny tent!

The next day we would be trekking from Mulling to Karo. From there to Pustring which was the last campsite before the pass. The pics of that trip are coming soon!

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